Motor Cycle Tire Change

I recently changed both tires on my '06 Aero. I didn't document the front tire change since it is very straight forward.	I did run into the problem when changing the front tire. The front axle was on very tight and the tool I had on hand wouldn't remove it.	The Honda tool shown is made of pretty light weight aluminum and began to deform when I tried to remove the front axle. While it fit the axle, I'm not sure that was its intended purpose. So, I had to make a more sturdy tool. I used a piece of 'sucker rod' I had laying around and ground the end to the dimensions needed for the axle.	Close up of my new tool.	Tool in place to get the front axle bolt out. Worked like a champ!
Bike jacked up ready to remove the rear wheel. Note the scissor jack under the crash bars. When the rear wheel is removed, the bike will want to tilt forward on the lift.	First step is to remove the exhaust. There are six bolts to remove in all.	Remove the two acorn nuts on the front cylinder.	Remove the two acorn nuts on the back cylinder.	Remove these two bolts, washers and nuts.
Exhaust removed.	Remove the axle bolt from the left side of the bike.	First, remove the cotter pin, bolts and washers from this brace. Second, remove the nut and spring from the adjuster.	Loosen the axle pinch bolt. Then, supporting the tire, remove the axle and spacers. Slide the wheel to the right to disengage it from the drive splines and remove it from the bike.	Tire removed.
The brake assembly simply lifts off. Now would be a good time to check how much of the pads remain and replace them if needed.	The rear of the bike with the wheel removed. This is a great time to do a little cleaning.	The replacement tire sitting in the sun. Heating the tire will make it easier to install.	Remove the valve core to let all of the air out of the tire.	Here is my Harbor Freight tire changer with the motorcylce wheel adapter. It is mounted on top of a plate attached to a post that is cemented into the ground. The tire changer can be unbolted and stored when not in use. Note the black mojolever (purchased separately) laying on the ground. It has nylon ends that will keep from scratching your rims when mounting and unmounting the tires. It is available at: http://home.comcast.net/ ~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm
I also installed Mojo blocks at the top of the rim clamps to keep from scratching the rims. They are made specifically for the Harbor Freight changer and are available at: http://home.comcast.net/ ~prestondrake/mojoblocks.htm	Break the bead on both sides of the tire.	Old tire removed and tube installed. Be sure to inspect the rubber rim strip that covers the spoke nuts. Replace if necessary.	First bead on. Be sure to line up the light spot of the tire with the valve stem. Tube has been stuffed inside the tire.	Install the valve stem and inflate the tube slightly. This will help keep the tube from getting pinched when mounting the second bead.
I used No-Mar tire lube when mounting the tire. It is available at: http://www.nomar-secure.com/category_s/4.htm	Tire mounted and inflated to the proper pressure. It is now sitting on a Mark Parnes wheel balancer. The balancer is available at http://www.marcparnes.com/ I needed 1.25 oz to balance the tire using stick-on wheel weights.	The splines on the wheel get a liberal application of moly lube.	Moly paste goes on the splines that the wheel mates to also.	Wheel installation is the reverse of removal.
Exhaust installed. Bike is ready to ride. In all, it took about 4 hours to change both tires. That included almost 1 hour to fabricate the axle tool.

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